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Review: Dozen Bake Shop, Lawrenceville

Last year I had a not-so-great cupcake experience at Dozen in Squirrel Hill.   A few months ago the Dozen folks opened the new Dozen Bake Shop in Lawrenceville, about five blocks from my house.  It's outstanding.

It's not just a cupcake joint; this is a full-service bakery with a big open kitchen and a busy, happy-looking crew.  You see them swanning around behind a pretty half-glass enclosure carrying huge metal pans of gorgeous food.  Local suppliers, organic ingredients, all the socially-conscious slow-food stuff you can usually only do for yourself at home.  Somehow, it's not expensive.  Given the quality of the experience, I think it's fair to say Dozen Bake Shop is cheap.

There are mind-blowing vegan chocolate chip cookies.  They are the best chocolate chip cookies ever.  Not the best vegan chocolate chip cookies -- the best cookies, period.  Heavy on the vanilla, with unheard-of extremes of tiny chocolate chips and a texture that  preserves the decadence of raw dough.

There are also the best scones of all time.  Scones: why do we even bother?  Usually it's a dry triangle of sugar-flavored dough with maybe some "chips" or "crumbles" or "bursts" of "flavor."   Yet Dozen serves sweet and savory scones that redefined the genre for me.   I had a cheddar-bacon-apple scone that was so good I had to stop eating it.  I had to pause and actually savor the scone.

Really good stuff.


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